October 22, 2026 - McDowell Mountain Storage Blog

How to Store Musical Instruments in a Storage Unit

Most advice on how to store musical instruments in a storage unit can be summed up in one line: rent a climate-controlled unit. That is good advice, and it takes the worst of the summer heat out of the picture. It also skips the part that actually cracks guitars, warps bow sticks, and loosens the seams on violins in a dry place like Scottsdale: humidity.

Wood absorbs and releases moisture along with the air around it. Keep a wooden instrument in air that is too dry for long enough, and it shrinks. This guide covers how to prepare each instrument type, how to set up the unit, and one inexpensive habit that protects wood instruments better than temperature control alone.

The Short Answer: How to Store Musical Instruments

Clean the instrument and dry it completely.
Prepare it for its type: ease string and bow tension, swab and disassemble wind instruments, take batteries out of electronics.
Keep it in a hard case or a breathable cover, never loose and never wrapped in plastic.
Add two-way humidity control for wooden instruments, plus a small digital hygrometer so you can see the actual humidity.
Store it on a shelf, off the floor, away from the door, with nothing stacked on top.
Check on it monthly at first, and replace humidity packs on schedule.

Why Humidity Matters More Than Most Guides Admit

Heat gets the attention in Arizona, and it deserves some. Our post on how Arizona’s heat affects stored items explains why, and how an indoor, air-conditioned unit solves most of it. Humidity is a separate question, and for wooden instruments it is the bigger one.

Taylor Guitars puts the ideal humidity range for an acoustic guitar at 45 to 55 percent and warns that dry conditions can lead to wood cracking, a sinking top, a lifting bridge, protruding fret ends, and poor string action. The same pattern applies to other wooden instruments. String instrument shops commonly cite a range of roughly 40 to 60 percent for violins, and Steinway describes the wood and felt in a piano as highly sensitive to swings in temperature and humidity. Exact numbers differ by maker, but they all stress the same thing: steady conditions.

Arizona makes this more relevant than most places. The air outside is dry to begin with, and air conditioning pulls moisture out of the air as it cools. Monsoon season, from mid-June through September, then brings humidity spikes in the other direction. A climate-controlled unit keeps the temperature steady, but you should verify humidity yourself instead of assuming.

Three habits that cover it

Measure it. A small digital hygrometer costs little and sits inside the case or on the shelf next to it. Taylor calls a hygrometer in the case the only way to be certain of the humidity level.
Use two-way humidity packs for wood instruments. These packs release moisture when the air is too dry and absorb it when the air is too damp. Taylor notes that this type of pack can last from two to six months depending on conditions.
Skip plain desiccant packets for wooden instruments. Desiccant only removes moisture, which is the last thing a guitar or violin needs in dry air. It makes sense for metal parts or electronics, not for wood.

Prep: What to Do Before Any Instrument Goes In

Clean it. Wipe off fingerprints, rosin dust, and oils with a soft, dry cloth. Dirt and moisture left on an instrument are the two things you do not want in a sealed case for months.
Let it dry fully. Never close a case on a damp instrument.
Take photos and note serial numbers. A quick record of the instrument’s condition and serial number helps later, whether you are comparing it after storage or keeping an inventory.
Remove batteries from pedals, keyboards, and electronics, and keep them at home. Our post on storing electronics covers the rest, and it is worth asking the office about facility rules on batteries before you bring any.
Check the case. Latches, hinges, and padding should be in good shape. A hard case is one of the best protections you can add. Our guide to preparing belongings for storage has more on packing materials.

Instrument by Instrument

Guitars, basses, and ukuleles

Keep them in a hard case with a two-way humidity pack and a hygrometer. Wipe down the strings and body. You do not need to remove the strings, though some players ease the tension slightly for long storage, so check your maker’s guidance. Avoid storing a guitar out of its case, even in a climate-controlled unit, because the case is what buffers it against changes in the air.

Violins, violas, and cellos

Slacken the bow hair before storing the bow, and take off the shoulder rest before the violin goes in its case. Store both instrument and bow in a hard case. Violin Online’s care guide gives the same advice and adds that players in dry climates should use a humidifier made for violins, since excessive dryness can cause cracking or open the seams.

Woodwinds: clarinets, saxophones, flutes

Swab the inside thoroughly after the last time you play. Take the reed off the mouthpiece, wipe it dry, and store it flat in a reed case. Leaving a reed on the mouthpiece in the case warps it. Follow your maker’s instructions for taking the instrument apart, put each piece in its slot in the case, and apply cork grease if the corks feel dry. Wooden clarinets can crack when they go through sudden temperature or humidity changes, so a steady environment matters most for them. For more, see these clarinet care tips.

Brass: trumpets, trombones, horns, tubas

Empty the moisture from the tubing and slides, wipe the instrument down, and let it dry completely. Lightly oil the valves and slides according to the maker’s instructions. Eastman’s care guide walks through emptying and cleaning brass. Brass handles temperature swings better than wood, but moisture can still tarnish and corrode it.

Pianos and keyboards

A piano is the one instrument that should not be a do-it-yourself move. Steinway advises using specialist carriers to transport a piano, and that is a good rule for any acoustic piano. Once it is in the unit, close and lock the lid, cover it with a breathable cloth cover instead of plastic, and keep everything off the top. Pianos are made largely of wood and felt, so steady humidity matters, too; a hygrometer on a nearby shelf shows what the piano is dealing with. Our size guide and space estimator can help you size the unit, since a piano takes far more room than a guitar or a few cases.

For digital keyboards and electronic pianos, power them down, take out batteries, coil the cables, and cover them with a dust sheet.

Drums and percussion

Ease the tension on the drumheads, take stands and hardware apart, and put the hardware in labeled bags so nothing gets lost. Keep cymbals in padded bags, and don’t stack heavy items on them. Do not stack hard cases on top of drum shells either.

How to Set Up the Unit

Shelves, not the floor. Raise cases and boxes onto shelving or pallets.
Away from the door. Keep instruments toward the back of the unit, where they are least likely to be bumped while you move other items in and out.
Nothing stacked on instruments. This includes other cases, boxes, and furniture. Pressure on a case can damage an instrument that looks perfectly protected.
Keep a walkway. You will want to check the hygrometer without moving everything.
Avoid plastic wrap. It traps moisture against the finish and prevents the instrument from breathing.

The facility helps here: McDowell Mountain Community Storage has ground-floor units, two elevators, and multiple loading docks, which makes moving heavy cases and larger instruments much easier than hauling them up stairs.

How Much Space Do Instruments Need?

A few cases fit in a small unit with room to spare. A 5×5, about the size of a walk-in closet, usually fits several guitars or a violin, plus a few boxes of accessories with shelving. For a drum kit, amplifiers, or a piano, you will want more room. Our guides to 5×5 units and 5×10 units show what fits, and the space estimator is the quickest way to confirm before you commit.

Check-In Schedule While Your Instruments Are Stored

Visit monthly for the first few months, and look at the hygrometer, not just at the case. If the reading stays within your instrument’s preferred range, you can space visits out. Replace humidity packs when the package says to; for two-way packs, that can be every two to six months, depending on conditions. Our post on how often to check on your storage unit covers what to do if you are out of town, and our snowbird storage tips help if you are away for the season.

When You Take Instruments Back Out

Let it adjust. Leave the case closed for a while in the room where you will play, so the instrument comes to room temperature before you open it.
Check the humidity pack and hygrometer before you take the instrument out.
Look it over. Check for cracks, lifted seams, loose braces, sticky valves, and sagging pads.
Retune and test it. Expect to retune, and have a technician look at anything that sounds or feels wrong.

Mistakes That Hurt Stored Instruments

Relying on temperature alone. A steady temperature does not guarantee safe humidity.
Using plain desiccant on wood instruments. It dries the air further when dryness is the problem.
Storing without a case. The case is the buffer between the instrument and the air.
Wrapping instruments in plastic. It traps moisture.
Leaving reeds on mouthpieces or batteries in electronics. Both lead to damage that is easy to prevent.
Moving a piano yourself. This carries injury and damage risks, so it is worth hiring specialists.
Never checking. A pack that ran out months ago protects nothing.

Need Indoor, Air-Conditioned Space for Your Instruments?

Every unit at McDowell Mountain Community Storage is indoors and air-conditioned, which keeps instruments out of the extreme heat that builds up in garages, sheds, and parked cars. Browse storage units in Scottsdale, or call (602) 899-5484 with questions about moving a piano, shelving, or anything else specific to your instruments. You can also contact us online, and the office is open seven days a week.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you store musical instruments in a storage unit?

Yes, if you prepare them properly and choose an indoor, temperature-controlled unit. Use a hard case, control humidity for wood instruments, and keep everything off the floor.

Do musical instruments need a climate-controlled storage unit?

For most instruments, yes. Heat and big temperature swings damage wood, glue, finishes, and pads. In Arizona, a non-air-conditioned space is a poor choice for instruments. Climate control handles temperature, so add a hygrometer and humidity packs to cover humidity.

What humidity is best for storing guitars and violins?

Taylor Guitars gives 45 to 55 percent for acoustic guitars, with 40 to 60 percent generally acceptable. Violins are commonly kept in about the 40 to 60 percent range. Check your maker’s recommendation and monitor with a hygrometer.

Should I loosen the strings before storing a guitar or violin?

For a violin bow, yes, always slacken the hair. For guitars, you do not need to remove the strings, though some players ease the tension slightly for long storage. Follow your maker’s guidance.

Can you store a piano in a storage unit?

Yes, with care. Use professional piano movers, cover it with a breathable cover, keep the lid closed, avoid placing anything on top, and watch the humidity. Use the size guide to pick a unit with enough room.

How often should I check on stored instruments?

Monthly for the first few months, then every one to two months if the humidity readings stay steady. Replace humidity packs on the schedule printed on the package.

How to Store a Bike in a Storage Unit

A bike can sit untouched for months and come out fine, or come out with flat-spotted tires, a rusty chain, and a dead battery. The difference is rarely how long it was stored. It is how clean and dry the bike was when it went in, whether its weight sat on the tires, and how hot the space got.

To store a bike in a storage unit, clean and dry it, lube the chain lightly, keep the tires inflated, get the wheels off the floor, and store it indoors out of the heat. The steps below cover each of those, plus what to do differently for an e-bike, how much space bikes really need, and how to check on the bike while it is stored.

What Actually Damages a Stored Bike (and What Doesn’t)

Time alone does very little. These are the things that do the damage:

Moisture: rust on the chain, cables, and bolts starts wherever moisture meets bare metal. Arizona is dry, but monsoon season (mid-June through September) brings humidity spikes.
Heat: heat is hard on tires and rubber, dries out and thins lubricants, and can damage e-bike batteries. A car trunk, a patio, or a garage in summer is the worst place for a bike.
Weight on the tires: a bike left sitting on soft or flat tires can develop flat spots and distort the rubber.
Grit: desert trail dust works into the chain and drivetrain and acts like sandpaper if it stays there.

An indoor, air-conditioned space removes most of the heat risk. Our post on how Arizona’s heat affects stored items explains why that matters for rubber, plastics, and electronics, and the benefits of climate-controlled storage covers the rest.

Prep: Clean, Lube, and Check Before the Bike Goes In

Clean the frame, wheels, and drivetrain. Dust and dried mud hold moisture against the metal. Wipe the bike down or give it a gentle wash, then dry it completely.
Re-lube the chain. After cleaning, apply a light coat of chain lube and wipe off the excess, since extra oil collects dust.
Keep lube off the brakes. Brake pads and rotors should stay clean and dry.
Shift the chain onto the smallest chainring and the smallest rear cog to relieve tension on the cables and derailleur springs.
Inspect it now. Note worn brake pads, cracked tires, or a stretched chain. Fixing them before storage means the bike will be ready to ride when you return.
Remove lights, bike computers, GPS units, and bags. Our guide to storing electronics covers the small electronics that come off the bike.
Wipe bare metal parts such as bolts and exposed cables with a thin film of oil to help prevent rust. Our packing and storage tips have more on protecting metal items.

Tires and Wheels: Avoiding Flat Spots

Advice on tire pressure differs. Most guides say to inflate tires before storage, while a few suggest letting some air out for long-term storage. What they agree on is that a bike should not sit on flat tires under its own weight. Keep the tires within the pressure range printed on the sidewall, and if the bike is off the floor, the problem mostly goes away.

Hang It, Stand It, or Park It? Choosing a Position

Vertical wall hook: saves floor space, with the bike hanging by the front wheel. It works for most bikes, but a heavy e-bike can be hard to lift, and if you have carbon wheels or are storing for many months, check your manufacturer’s guidance.
Horizontal hooks or a wall rack: these hold the bike parallel to the wall and keep the tires off the floor.
Freestanding floor stand or rack: no wall mounting needed, and it suits heavier bikes.
Upright on the floor: the simplest option for short-term storage, but the weight sits on the tires, so check the pressure more often.

Ask the office whether you can mount anything on the unit walls. A freestanding rack avoids the question.

E-Bikes: Take the Battery Out

E-bike batteries are the one part of a bike that needs different handling. Bosch recommends storing its eBike batteries at a 30 to 60 percent charge, at room temperature, in a dry room, away from flammable or combustible objects and in a room with a working smoke detector. It also says excessive heat and direct sunlight can damage the battery. Check your own manufacturer’s instructions, since other brands may differ.

That guidance is why most riders take the battery out and keep it at home while the bike is in storage. Before you bring any battery to a unit, ask the office about the facility’s policy, because liquids, flammables, and hazardous materials are generally restricted.

How Much Space Do Bikes Need?

A typical adult bike is roughly 5.5 to 6 feet long and about two feet wide at the handlebars. In a 5×5, about the size of a walk-in closet, you can typically fit one or two bikes with a few bins of gear. A 5×10 gives you room for several bikes plus helmets, tools, and a floor pump. Our guides to 5×5 units and 5×10 units and the space estimator can help you confirm.

Check-In Schedule While the Bike Is Stored

Look at the bike every month or two. Check tire pressure, wipe off any dust, and make sure nothing has shifted or fallen. If you will be out of town, our post on how often to check on your storage unit explains how to handle it, and for the seasonal routine, see storage tips for snowbirds in Scottsdale.

Bringing the Bike Back Out: A Five-Minute Check

Air: pump the tires to the pressure on the sidewall and look for cracks.
Brakes: squeeze both levers and make sure the pads and rotors are clean and working.
Chain: wipe it, add a drop of lube per link, and wipe off the excess.
Bolts: check that the wheels, stem, and saddle are snug.
E-bike: reinstall and charge the battery before you ride.

Need Indoor Space for Your Bikes?

Every unit at McDowell Mountain Community Storage is indoors and air-conditioned, which keeps bikes out of the heat that builds up in garages and car trunks. Browse storage units in Scottsdale, or call (602) 899-5484 with questions, including whether we can take an e-bike battery. The office is open seven days a week.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you store a bike in a storage unit?

Yes. Bikes store well in a clean, dry, indoor unit as long as you clean and lube them first, keep the tires inflated, and get the weight off the tires when you can.

Is it OK to store a bike in a garage in Arizona?

A garage is better than outside, but garages get very hot in summer, which is hard on tires, lubricants, and batteries. An indoor, air-conditioned space is safer for long stretches.

Should I hang my bike or stand it up?

Either can work. Hanging keeps the weight off the tires and saves floor space, while a floor stand avoids wall mounting and suits heavier bikes. Ask the facility whether wall mounting is allowed.

Should I deflate my bike tires for storage?

Most guides say to keep them inflated, and a few suggest letting some air out for long-term storage. The goal is to avoid fully flat tires under the bike’s weight, so keep them within the sidewall range and check them every month or two.

Can you store an e-bike battery in a storage unit?

Ask the facility first. Many restrict batteries because of fire risk, and manufacturers such as Bosch recommend storing batteries at room temperature in a dry room with a smoke detector. Most riders keep the battery at home.

How often should I check on a stored bike?

Every month or two is a good routine. Check tire pressure, look for dust or moisture, and make sure the bike stays secure on its rack or hook.

How to Store Golf Clubs and Gear in Scottsdale Without Heat Damage

Most advice about storing golf clubs assumes a garage in a mild climate. In Scottsdale, that advice misses the two things that shorten golf gear’s life here: heat and long gaps between rounds. Clubs get left in a parked car after a morning round, bags sit in a garage through July, and snowbirds head north for half the year.

The short version: clean and dry everything, keep it out of the heat, and store it upright in a cool indoor space. Details vary depending on how long the gear sits, so this guide breaks it down by situation, then covers prep, sizing, and what to check when you pull everything back out.

Fix the Car Problem Before the Storage Problem

For many Scottsdale golfers, the hottest place their clubs ever sit is not the garage or a storage unit. It is the trunk. NHTSA notes that the inside of a parked car can heat up by about 20 degrees in just 10 minutes, and a trunk is no cooler on a summer afternoon.

Titleist makes the same point about golf balls: its guidance is to store balls indoors year-round and avoid leaving them in a car trunk in sweltering or freezing weather. Club makers and fitters give similar advice for clubs, since heat is hard on grips and on the epoxy that bonds each head to its shaft. Manufacturers don’t publish a precise temperature limit for that bond, so treat it as a reason for caution, not a hard rule.

The fix costs nothing: bring the bag inside right after the round, and if you are driving it to storage, go straight there instead of running errands first.

What Heat and Dry Air Do to Each Piece of Gear

Grips: rubber and synthetic grips dry out, harden, and lose tack with sustained heat and sun. If your grips already feel slick or cracked, replace them before storing, not after.
Shafts and heads: sustained heat is the main concern for the glue joint, and moisture is the concern for steel heads. Clean and dry them fully before they go away.
Balls: Titleist advises letting balls that have been exposed to extremes return gradually to room temperature before playing them.
Bag, towels, and gloves: a damp towel or glove left in a pocket can grow mildew, and Arizona’s monsoon season (mid-June through September) brings humidity spikes even in a dry climate.
Shoes and leather gloves: leather dries out and cracks in extreme heat, and wet shoes sealed in plastic develop odor and mold.
Rangefinders and GPS devices: lithium batteries and heat do not mix. See our guide to storing electronics safely.
Push carts: wipe down, dry completely, and fold before storing. Metal parts can rust if they’re stored damp.

Pick Your Storage Situation

Where the gear should go depends mostly on how long it will sit.

A summer break (a few weeks to a few months)

Many golfers play less from June through August, but the clubs stay in the house. The best spot is an interior closet in the air-conditioned part of your home, which beats a garage by a wide margin. If closet space is the problem, a small indoor unit solves it without moving the clubs into extreme heat. Our post on how Arizona’s heat affects stored items explains why garages and sheds are the weak link.

The snowbird off-season (six months or more)

Gear that sits for half a year deserves a more careful prep. Make the grip decision before you store, not when you get back: if grips are worn, schedule the regrip now so the clubs are ready for your first round in the fall. Plan a check-in too; our guide on how often to check on your storage unit covers what to do if you will be out of state. For the rest of the seasonal routine, see storage tips for snowbirds in Scottsdale.

Between homes or during a renovation

The priority here is protecting gear while everything else is in motion. Keep the bag upright and separate from boxes that could be stacked on it, and do not store it with paint, solvents, or fuel. Combustibles are not allowed in storage units.

How to Prep Clubs, Bag, and Shoes for Storage

Clean the heads. Use warm water, mild soap, and a soft brush on the grooves, then dry fully with a towel.
Wipe shafts and grips. Mild soap and water are enough. Let the grips dry completely before the clubs go in the bag.
Empty the bag and check every pocket. Remove towels, gloves, balls, tees, and food. Look especially for sunscreen, bug spray, drinks, and other liquids or aerosols, since liquids and flammables are not allowed in a unit.
Use headcovers and keep the bag upright. Stand it on a shelf or a stand, off the floor, with nothing stacked on top.
Prep shoes and gloves. Clean and dry shoes, stuff them with paper or use shoe trees, and condition the leather. Avoid sealed plastic bags.
Fold and wipe the push cart. Dry it completely first, and wipe metal parts so they do not rust.
Take photos and label. A quick photo of what is in the unit and a labeled bag make retrieval easier. Our packing and storage tips have more on this.

A note on batteries: golf cart and electric push-cart batteries are the one item to ask about before you pack anything. Facilities generally restrict liquids, flammables, and hazardous materials, and our prohibited list includes all three, so confirm with the office first. If a battery is not approved, store it at home away from heat.

What Size Unit Do You Need?

A golf bag is tall but narrow, so you do not need much floor space. A 5×5, about the size of a walk-in closet, typically fits one or two bags and a folded push cart. A 5×10 gives you space for several sets, shoes, and bins on a shelf. Measure your bag height and the folded size of your cart before you decide. Our guides to 5×5 units and 5×10 units and the space estimator can help you confirm.

When You Take the Gear Back Out

Check grips for cracks, slickness, or a hard surface.
Look over the heads for rust or loose ferrules, and listen for any rattle in the hosel.
Let balls come up to room temperature gradually before you play them.
Check shoes and bag pockets for mildew or odor.
Hit a few balls on the range before your first full round.

Need a Cool, Indoor Place for the Off-Season?

Every unit at McDowell Mountain Community Storage is indoors and air-conditioned, which keeps clubs, bags, and shoes out of the heat that builds up in garages and parked cars. Browse storage units in Scottsdale, or call (602) 899-5484 with questions, including whether we can take a cart battery. The office is open seven days a week.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you store golf clubs in a garage in Arizona?

You can, but a garage is a weak choice from May through September, when it can get much hotter than the house. An interior closet or an air-conditioned space is a safer place for clubs, grips, and shoes.

Is it OK to leave golf clubs in a hot car?

Occasionally, for a short time, is unlikely to cause trouble. Regularly leaving them in a trunk through a Scottsdale summer is not advised, since heat is hard on grips and on the glue that holds the heads on.

How should you store golf clubs for the summer?

Clean and dry the clubs, bag, and shoes, then store them upright in a cool, indoor space with headcovers on. Avoid garages, sheds, and car trunks.

Should golf clubs be stored in or out of the bag?

Either works if the bag is clean and dry and the clubs have headcovers. Keeping them in the bag is simplest, as long as the bag stands upright and nothing is stacked on top.

Can you store golf cart batteries in a storage unit?

Ask the facility first. Many restrict liquids, flammables, and hazardous materials, and batteries can fall into those categories. If it is not approved, store the battery at home away from heat.

How long can you store golf equipment?

Clubs, bags, and shoes can be stored for many months if they are clean, dry, and kept out of the heat. Check them periodically if they will be stored for the whole off-season.

How to Move Out of a Storage Unit: A Step-by-Step Checklist

Most checklists for how to move out of a storage unit start with giving notice to the facility. That is the easy part, and it takes one phone call. What actually decides whether move-out day takes a couple of hours or eats an entire weekend is the thing those checklists skip: knowing where every item in the unit is going before you pick up the first box.

Things in storage have been out of sight for months, sometimes years. Some of it is headed to a new home. Some of it should be donated or sold. Some of it is trash. And in some cases the better answer is a smaller unit, not an empty one. Settle that first, and the rest of this storage unit move-out checklist is just logistics.

The Short Answer: How to Move Out of a Storage Unit

Decide where each item is going: a new place, donation, sale, or disposal.
Check your rental agreement and give notice with a specific move-out date.
Line up a vehicle, helpers, and supplies sized to the unit.
Empty the unit and keep each pile separate as you go.
Sweep, inspect, and photograph the empty unit.
Remove your lock and close out any gate access.
Tell the office the unit is empty, get confirmation, and check your final bill.

Here is how each step works in practice.

Step 1: Decide Where Everything Is Going

Every move-out ends one of three ways, and each one changes your checklist:

Everything moves to a new place: a new home, a new facility, or a relative’s garage. Your main job is transport and timing.
You are downsizing: some items leave and a smaller unit keeps the rest. Your main job is sorting.
You are clearing the unit out entirely: most of it is donated, sold, or thrown away. Your main job is disposal, and it takes longer than people expect.

Walk the unit with a notepad, or use your move-in inventory if you kept one, and sort every item into four piles: moving with me, donate, sell, and dispose. If a particular item has you stuck, the four-question test in our guide on what to keep, donate, sell, or store settles most of them quickly.

Before you commit to leaving, ask whether you actually need to. If the unit has been overcrowded or mostly empty, a different size may solve the problem. The size guide and space estimator show what fits in each unit, and our post on short-term vs. long-term storage helps if the real question is how long you need the space.

Step 2: Check Your Rental Agreement and Give Notice

Pull out your rental agreement and look for three things: any notice requirement, your billing date, and how the facility confirms a move-out. Rent is typically billed monthly, so the day you finish can affect your last charge. It is much better to know that before you book the truck than after.

Units at McDowell Mountain Community Storage are month-to-month with no long-term commitment, so there is no lease term to wait out. When you tell the office, be specific: give your unit number and the exact date you plan to be finished. You can call (602) 899-5484 or stop by. The office is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and it is closed on select holidays.

Step 3: Line Up Your Vehicle, Help, and Supplies

Match the vehicle to the unit. The size guide shows what fits in each size from 5×5 to 10×25, which also tells you roughly how much truck you will need. Bring at least one helper for furniture and appliances, and ask the office what carts or hand trucks are available so you are not guessing on the day.

The building works in your favor if you plan around it. Ground-floor units mean less hauling, and if your unit is on an upper floor, the two elevators and multiple loading docks let you move everything without stairs. Moving supplies are available on-site if you run short on boxes, tape, or packing paper.

Timing matters too. Facility access hours run from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m., so plan to finish your last load well before the end of the day instead of racing the clock. In the summer months, start early. Our moving day checklist has a full plan for working around desert heat.

Step 4: Empty the Unit in the Right Order

Think of it as move-in in reverse: what went in last is nearest the door. Clear the front first so you can reach the rest, and stage everything by destination as you go. Keep one area for the truck, one for donations, and one for trash. Mixed piles are how donation boxes end up in the new house, and good furniture ends up at the dump.

Load heavy and sturdy items first so they sit at the bottom of the truck.
Check inside furniture. Dresser drawers, cabinets, and a washer drum are common places for forgotten items.
Look at the top shelves and the back corners. Anything pushed behind furniture on move-in day is still there.
If you kept an inventory list, tick items off as they leave the unit.

Step 5: Deal With What Is Not Going With You

This is the step that stretches move-out day, so do as much of it as you can before the day itself.

Donate: take donations straight to the drop-off the same day and ask for a receipt. If you plan to claim the donation on your taxes, the IRS explains what records to keep in Publication 526.
Sell: give yourself a deadline. If it hasn’t sold by then, donate it.
Dispose: do not assume you can leave trash behind. Ask the office before using any facility trash area, and plan a dump run or a junk removal pickup for anything large.

One more category deserves a warning: hazardous items. Our storage tips ask tenants not to store combustibles like paint, solvents, or fuel, but if something got tucked into a box years ago, keep it out of the trash. The EPA’s page on household hazardous waste explains what counts and how to find safe disposal options.

Step 6: Sweep, Inspect, and Photograph the Empty Unit

Leave the unit the way you would want to find it: swept, free of tape and packing debris, with no spills or stains on the floor. Check the corners and the edges along the walls. Then take a few dated photos of the empty unit from the doorway, showing the floor, the walls, and the door. If a question about the unit’s condition ever comes up, those photos settle it in seconds.

Step 7: Remove Your Lock and Close Out Access

Take your lock with you. Leaving a lock on an empty unit leaves the office unsure whether you are finished, and it can delay closing your account. Check the latch and door once more after the lock is off.

If you shared your gate code or gave anyone access to the unit, such as movers, a contractor, or a family member, mention it to the office when you confirm your move-out so everything is closed out cleanly. Our post on how to keep your storage unit secure explains why leftover access is one of the most overlooked storage risks.

Step 8: Confirm Your Move-Out and Check Your Final Bill

Do not assume you are done when the truck pulls away. Tell the office the unit is empty, ask for confirmation that your move-out is complete, and keep that confirmation with your records. Because the office closes at 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 4 p.m. on Sunday, plan to check in before then.

Then review your final statement. If you pay through the online bill pay system, confirm that no further payments are scheduled so you are not charged for a unit you no longer have.

Mistakes That Cost People Time or Money on Move-Out Day

Never deciding what is going where. It leaves a pile of “maybe” items and nowhere to put them.
Skipping the rental agreement. Notice and billing dates can change when you should finish.
Leaving the lock on the door. It delays closing the account and creates an extra trip.
Forgetting items inside furniture or on top shelves. Check drawers, cabinets, and appliances before you call it done.
Starting late in the day. Access hours end at 10 p.m., and a half-loaded truck at closing time is a bad plan.
Skipping the confirmation. Without it, you cannot be sure the rental actually closed.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much notice do I need to give to move out of a storage unit?

It depends on your rental agreement, so check it before you choose a date. McDowell Mountain Community Storage units are month-to-month, so there is no long-term term to wait out. Call the office at (602) 899-5484 to confirm the notice for your unit and the date you plan to finish.

Do I have to clean my storage unit before I move out?

Plan on it. Sweep the floor, remove tape and packing debris, and clean up any spills. A swept, empty unit avoids questions later, and dated photos give you a record of its condition.

Can I move out of a storage unit in one day?

Often, yes, especially with a small unit and a clear plan for where everything is going. Larger units, or moves that involve donation runs and disposal trips, usually take longer. Facility access hours run from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m., so start early and leave yourself margin.

What happens if I leave items behind?

Leaving belongings in a unit generally means the rental is not finished, and it may lead to additional charges. Check your rental agreement, and if you realize you forgot something after you leave, contact the office right away.

Will I get a refund if I move out in the middle of the month?

Rent is typically billed monthly, so whether any unused time is credited depends on your rental agreement. Ask the office about final-month billing before you set your move-out date, ideally before your next billing date.

Do I need to take my lock with me?

Yes. A lock left on the door keeps the unit closed to the office and can delay closing your account. Remove it once the unit is empty.

Need a Different Size Instead of an Empty Unit?

If you are moving out because the unit no longer fits your needs, you may not have to leave at all. McDowell Mountain Community Storage offers fully indoor, climate-controlled storage units in Scottsdale from 5×5 to 10×25, so moving up or down a size is a conversation with the office, not a whole new search. Call (602) 899-5484 or contact us, and we will help you find the right fit or walk you through the move-out.